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Egyptian Cotton

The correct definition of this cotton is that it is a particular variety of cotton noted for its very long and strong fibers. Just as tomatoes come in different varieties such as cherry and beefsteak, cotton also comes in many different specific varieties. Some are very inexpensive, and some, like true Egyptian cotton, are expensive.

In the world marketplace, many cheap cottons are also being referred to as "Egyptian Cotton". If an Egyptian Cotton article seems to be a very low price, it is probably not genuine. Three things to be aware of when you are purchasing Egyptian cotton linens are the contents. Some fabrics are labeled as Egyptian cotton when in fact they have a tiny percentage of genuine Egyptian cotton ~ say 5% or so. Second of all, the definition of "Egyptian Cotton" in some dictionaries is simply any finely woven cotton ~ this does rather leave the door open. Lastly, cotton grown in the country of Egypt may sound expensive and high in quality, but can be any variety. Since American Upland cottons (which are a much shorter fiber) now comprise 90% of the world's crop, it is a safe assertion that this might be in the package

If you compare these same fabrics magnified many times, you can now see the difference. There is an enormous difference in the quality of these two fabrics. The genuine Egyptian cotton has a very smooth surface, with only an occasional tiny fiber raised from the surface. The copper colored fabric has many fiber ends standing up. It is obviously made from an inexpensive, short staple cotton, because of this "furring".

The long fibers in Egyptian cotton have a lot more surface and length to "grab" each other, with a lot fewer ends to lift out of the thread. This makes the thread much stronger, and the resulting fabric much smoother and more resistant to pilling.

It is very simple to demonstrate why: The long fiber of the Egyptian cotton means that there are very few breaks between the fibers when twisted into a thread. However the short fibers of cheap cotton mean that there are many breaks. There are a lot more fiber ends and these show up on the surface as in the photo.

There are many other factors that will affect the quality of the fabric. The way the thread is spun, the way it is woven, and the way it is dyed and finished. There are many technical variances. There are good methods, and there are cheap methods. The good methods result in fabrics that will remain soft, lustrous, and a pleasure to own. The cheap methods result in fabrics that are cheap, that will pill quickly, and wear out too soon. They are not a pleasure to own.

As with anything in this world, if you educate yourself you will make informed decisions. The most uninformed decision is one based solely on price. This is usually because you end up paying too much because the article does not perform, and you have to go through the whole process all over again.

The long fibers in Egyptian cotton have a lot more surface and length to "grab" each other, with a lot fewer ends to lift out of the thread. This makes the thread much stronger, and the resulting fabric much smoother and more resistant to pilling.

The short fibers in cheap cottons mean the thread will be much weaker, with a lot more ends to lift out of the thread. The resulting fabric will wear out much faster, and be far more likely to pill.

There are many other factors that will affect the quality of the fabric. The way the thread is spun, the way it is woven, and the way it is dyes and finished. There are many technical variances. There are good methods, and there are cheep methods. The good methods result in fabrics that will remain soft, lustrous, and a pleasure to own. The cheap methods result in fabrics that are cheap, that will pill quickly, and wear out too soon. They are not a pleasure to own.

Just like Egyptian cotton is a high quality species of cotton, GIZA is one of the highest qualities of all the varieties of Egyptian cottons. Most of St.Geneve bed linens are made of GIZA Egyptian cotton. It is grown in Egypt and Turkey as well as a few other countries where conditions have to be ideal. Because the fibers are so long, it actually has to be hand harvested in order to keep the fibers intact. Machine harvesting damages the strands.

GIZA is the Egyptian cotton of choice for very high quality cotton goods. It is found in the very best bed linens and in the very best towels. It is also used for the highest qualities of embroidery thread.    
  
 Good quality long staple cotton will spin into good quality thread. Good quality thread will weave into good quality fabric. All three stages must be completed in a quality fashion, or the result will be inferior. Some fabrics will appear to be a bargain, but they won't be a pleasure to use, and they won't last. While not obvious on the surface, you can see that close magnified inspection shows a surprisingly large difference.   

Cotton is one of the world's most comfortable fibers

 
Cotton Types 

Cotton is the most widely used fibre for fabric because of its strength, durability and breathability. The word "staple" refers to fiber length. When someone refers to "long staple cotton" they are referring to variety 1, 2, or 3. The longer the fiber size of a variety, the more difficult it is to grow, and the more difficult it is to process. Hence the longer the staple, the more expensive it becomes. 

The chart shows the approximate relative sizes of the fibers. 

1. Sea Island Cotton 
Sea Island Cotton is in extremely limited supply, and is very expensive to grow and to process. It is typically used in very expensive men's shirts. 


2. Egyptian Cotton 
Egyptian Cotton was developed from stocks that originated in South and Central America. Menoufi is the most widely used variety. The highly prized Giza variety has exceptionally strong fibers about 1?" long, and is used in the best qualities of embroidery thread, and the finest cotton fabrics for sheets and duvet tickings. 


3. Pima Cotton 
Pima cotton is in between Egyptian Cotton and American Upland long staple in length and price. It is a very good quality. 


4. American Upland Long Staple 
This cotton is only "Long Staple" in comparison to American Upland Short Staple cotton. The American Upland cottons now comprise up to 90% of the worlds crop. They are much easier to grow and process, and are therefore much less costly. They are perfectly adequate for medium quality fabrics. They make poor downproof fabrics for duvets and pillows, as they will ultimately leak. They are also unsuitable for high thread count sheets, as they will feel limp and coarse after a few launderings. This is the cotton used in bargain duvets, and in inexpensive "luxury" sheets. 


5. American Upland Short Staple 
A less expensive version of cotton, and a very basic quality. Suitable for denim for blue jeans. 




Thread Count 

Thread Count is Not the Whole Story...

 Thread count is simply a measure of how many threads are present in a square inch of fabric. It is a combination of the number of horizontal and vertical threads found in that square inch. 
 
Thread count is often used as the only definition of quality for a sheet. In fact, Thread Count is a relatively minor measure of quality. The quality of the fiber used to make the thread is far more important than the thread count of the fabric. To make high thread count fabrics, thread must be spun very fine in order to fit a lot into a square inch. 
 
It is entirely appropriate to use short staple cotton (which is of a lower quality) for fabrics such as denim, canvas and other heavier fabrics. However, when it is used to make fine threads, they are too weak, and the resulting fabric will be unsatisfactory. 
 
Start With Good Cotton Fibre ... 
 
Low quality thread makes a low quality 300 thread count fabric  
These fabrics have the same 300 thread count. The one on the left is of a much lower quality. You can see that the threads are of an uneven size, which results in an uneven weave. There are thin patches throughout this fabric. This will cause the fabric to wear out faster and launder poorly, as it is only as strong as its weakest areas. Poor quality thread is spun from cheap shorter staple cottons. 
 
The fabric on the right is a German made sateen. The mill started with a high quality thread to weave this cloth. It is even and smooth and luxurious. It will provide many years of service. This thread is spun from a more expensive long staple cotton. 
 
High quality thread makes a high quality 300 thread count fabric  
 

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